Asian Food in A-Town

In the 1960s, Kavee Kaewdang worked in Thailand’s government. He lived in Nonthaburi, Thailand—a smaller city about 12 miles from Bangkok, known for a huge fresh market offering all kinds of street food. Kaewdang and his family struggled to live on a low government salary, but had a cousin who had relocated to Amarillo, Texas. The idea of a move, and a fresh start, intrigued him.

“We had to visit them,” he says today in heavily accented English. His niece, Apple, helps translate for him. Kavee came to Amarillo in 1970, looking for a new chance. “That’s where everything started.”

By 1985, Kaewdang had opened Bangkok Bar on a property at 5901 E. Amarillo Blvd. Over the years, it became Bangkok Restaurant and Lounge, offering “home-style Thai food the way you’ll find it in Thailand.” It’s located within the incredibly diverse Eastridge neighborhood, surrounded by big business and industrial buildings. The Amazon Fulfillment Center is nearby. Pacific Cheese and the local Coca-Cola distributor are in the neighborhood. Pantex is that direction, a few miles outside the city limits. So are the big processing plants.

“I thought this was the best location, because people from Tyson, this is the first restaurant they see coming back to town,” he says. “People are gonna stop here, eating and drinking and enjoy.”

Kaewdang turns 90 this summer. He and his wife, Somying, still work at the restaurant. She’s central to the kitchen. Their daughter, Kasorn, bustles around the dining area. Kavee inspects the appearance and plating of food before it’s delivered to the restaurant’s loyal diners, who have been eating and drinking and enjoying themselves at this restaurant for four decades now.

Though it started as a bar, Bangkok was likely the first Thai restaurant in Amarillo and may have been one of the first Asian restaurants here. That was in the 1980s, and dishes like pad thai or thai curry must have felt truly exotic on Amarillo’s east side. But today, in what has become an increasingly diverse culinary scene, Asian flavors and foods seem to be everywhere.

The Texas Panhandle may not be the first place that comes to mind for bold Asian flavors, but 40 years after Kavee Kaewdang opened his doors on the Boulevard, our streets are filled with family-run eateries and modern fusion spots alike. Each location brings unique flavors, traditions and family stories to the table.

As winter began to give way to spring, Brick & Elm embarked on a tour of the local Asian culinary scene. We weren’t interested in generic buffets or chains along I-40. Instead, we wanted to unroll the unique flavors and preparations favored across our diverse Thai, Vietnamese, Chinese, Japanese and Korean restaurants. All of these cultures share common ingredients, like rice and noodles, but each also offers distinctive techniques and dining experiences.