You know what I did yesterday? Rather than conveniently clicking “add to cart” for my usual online grocery order, I decided to do something different. I took a trip to S.E.A. Market, the new Asian market at 34th and Georgia, to see what sorts of gems I could find. There’s something refreshingly authentic about strolling through a local Asian market. It’s like taking a mini global adventure without leaving your neighborhood, where you can discover interesting culinary treasures. S.E.A. has imported spices and sauces, as well as locally grown produce and flowers. I only had about 20 minutes to kill, so I asked owner Naomi Vang to pick a few ingredients for me to try.
She introduced me to the most gorgeous squash—an opo long squash. Despite its misleading name, the opo long squash isn’t really a squash at all—it’s a gourd in disguise. Its smooth, pale green skin and firm flesh immediately intrigued me, so I asked Naomi how she prepared it. Cultural appreciation is the name of the game, not appropriation. I wanted to ensure I wouldn’t disrespect the beautiful gourd by dipping it in batter and frying it up like a chicken-fried steak. Above all else, I loved that I had this import in my hot little hands and couldn’t wait to transform it into something delicious.
Naomi shared her Long Squash Curry recipe with me, and I couldn’t wait to get it home and add a bit of Black Fig to it. One thing she mentioned was keeping it simple. The ideas started to flow:
Stir-fry: Cube it and saute it with garlic, ginger and a dash of soy sauce. Voilà! I’ve got a dish that pays respect to East Asian roots.
Curry: Use it in a Southeast Asian-inspired coconut curry with lemongrass and turmeric, where the opo’s mildness balances the vibrant spices.
Soup: In a nod to Chinese cuisine, maybe I should pair it with pork or seafood in a simple broth-based soup with ginger.
With a package of tender skirt steak from 4B Beef calling my name, why not go bold and incorporate that into a hearty Long Squash and Steak Curry? It’s slightly different from Naomi’s tried-and-true curry recipe, but variety is the spice of life, am I right? And let’s be honest, there’s nothing quite like a satisfying dish that combines the best of local finds with global flavors. Give this one a try!
Long Squash Curry with Skirt Steak
1 pound skirt steak, thinly sliced
1 medium opo long squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into bite-size chunks
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 shallot, thinly sliced
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon ginger, minced
2 tablespoons red curry paste (adjust to your heat preference)
1 (14-ounce) can coconut milk
1 cup beef or vegetable broth
2 tablespoons fish sauce
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon brown sugar
Juice of 1 lime
1 to 2 Thai chilis, thinly sliced (optional, for extra heat)
Fresh cilantro, chopped (for garnish)
Steamed rice, for serving
Season thinly-sliced skirt steak with a pinch of salt and pepper. In a large pan or wok, heat 1 tablespoon oil over medium-high heat. Sear steak for 2 to 3 minutes on each side until browned but still tender.* Remove from pan and set aside.
In the same pan, add remaining tablespoon oil. Lower heat to medium and sauté onion, garlic and ginger until fragrant and softened, about 3 to 4 minutes.
Add red curry paste to the pan, stirring into onions and garlic for 1 to 2 minutes to release flavors. Slowly pour in coconut milk and broth, stirring to combine. Let mixture simmer for 5 minutes.
Toss squash chunks into the curry and cook for 10 to 12 minutes until tender but not mushy. Stir occasionally to make sure the squash cooks evenly.
Stir in fish sauce, soy sauce and brown sugar. Adjust seasoning to taste by adding more fish sauce for saltiness or sugar for sweetness, if needed. Squeeze in lime juice for a hit of bright acidity.
Add cooked skirt steak back into the curry. Let it simmer for an additional 2 to 3 minutes to soak up the flavors. You could also serve the curry into bowls and top with skirt steak. (see photo)
To serve, garnish with fresh cilantro and Thai chilies for extra heat, if desired. Serve hot over steamed rice.
*Skirt steak cooks quickly, so be careful not to overdo it. You want it juicy and tender, not tough. If you’re feeling adventurous, a sprinkle of roasted peanuts or a drizzle of chili oil adds extra depth to the dish.
Makes 4 servings
