It is not every day that I get to combine boulders and bombs in one title, much less any. It all happens at Petroglyph National Monument, a national treasure one might think would be miles from civilization, but is in large part surrounded by the sprawling suburban development of Albuquerque. Volcanoes, historic storytelling and military training are all stirred into this cauldron.
The Boulders Speak
Two hundred millennia ago, nearby volcanoes erupted, and when the lava cooled, it formed basalt. Along the escarpment that is the west wall of the Rio Grande Valley, time and elements eroded the exposed basalt, leaving behind massive black boulders. Ancestral Puebloans who had settled in the area by 1300 found the black veneer to be the perfect palette for their expression, using harder stone tools to scratch away the dark surface. The Tiwa People, as they are known, did not have a written language, and instead drew pictures.
It would be shortsighted to dismiss the petroglyphs as ancient graffiti, because these drawings tell the story of the Ancients. It’s just that archeologists are still trying to decipher it all, concluding thus far that some of the glyphs had spiritual significance, while others marked trails, identified water sources, and the like.
Human habitation started to change in the 1500s with the passage of Coronado, his men and their horses. In 1598, Spaniard Don Juan de Oñate arrived, and permanent European settlements, along with a steady herd of horses, were established. The Spaniards also found the basalt to be a convenient place to leave their markings, which typically included crosses, horses and brands.
The Monument is split into three separate units along the escarpment. Stop at the Visitor Center first for maps and souvenirs, then proceed north to Boca Negra Canyon, where there are several short trails and easily accessed petroglyphs. One trail involves some short, steep sections, but it has a macadam surface along with concrete stairs. Farther north is Piedras Marcadas Canyon, with a 1.5-mile out-and-back trail with seven viewing areas, as well as a 2.8-mile loop incorporating these as well as the mesa top. Lastly, there is the 1.9-mile loop at Rinconada Canyon, at the southern extent of the Monument.
And Now The Bombs
It was time to head to the western side of the Monument, but only after buying a half gallon of water. I headed south on Unser Boulevard to West I-40, exited at Atrisco Vista Boulevard, and proceeded north a few miles to the trailhead parking on the east side.
This is the day use area of the Monument known as “the volcanoes,” where three prominent peaks easily visible looking west from Albuquerque are situated. Called the Three Sisters—Vulcan, Black and JA— these dormant volcanoes last erupted up to 200,000 years ago. I took the trail headed due north, which then gently arcs northeast between a couple of the cones. The other trail returns from the east, allowing for a clockwise trip, which I followed. The terrain is gentle for the most part, with occasional rocky areas.
The Volcanoes have been too tempting to miss an opportunity for hijinks. In 1947, a group of teens dragged a bunch of tires atop one of the cones, doused it with an accelerant, and ignited it, spewing black smoke that was visible for miles. It is a prank that has been repeated multiple times through the years.
It is a little-known area north of the Three Sisters that makes this 5.3-mile circuit worth the effort. Shortly after where the main trails crisscross, a faint double track road veers off to the right. I followed it, aiming for the distant power lines. In the 1940s, the newly created Albuquerque Army Air Base ran bombing missions over the east slopes of the volcanoes here, dropping concrete bombs at targets.
Many of those concrete bombs can still be found, along with steel bands and fins. The debris field is still large and offers hikers a chance to see a page of history dating back 85 years. The debris is not marked on maps, but can be found at 35.15732N, 106.76846W.
Hit The Road
This adventure scales easily depending on your schedule and energy level. While I undertook all of it—12 miles in one day—this can be broken up into two or three days. All of the trails have high sun exposure. Wear a hat and sunscreen, and bring plenty of water. Mornings and evenings are best during summer months.
More than anything, I love the juxtaposition of 200,000-year-old volcanoes, 700-year-old petroglyphs on boulders, and 85-year-old bombing debris. That’s a lot of history packed into one place, not to mention primarily in a suburban landscape.
