If there is any town in Texas in which you could feel it apropos to break out your best Bavarian attire any time of the year, it would be Fredericksburg. Located about seven hours southeast of Amarillo in the heart of the Hill Country, it is my favorite getaway. Judging by the crowds and rave reviews, apparently I am one among many.
Founded in May 1846 by German immigrants under the Society for the Protection of German Immigrants in Texas, it reflects its heritage with an air of authenticity seldom found in touristy places. This is no Helen, Georgia, a town that was created to look like any Oktoberfest reveler might be seen walking down the sidewalk. From streets and highways to local businesses bearing settler names, this is the real deal.
While the food is at the top of the list (German pancakes, sauerbraten, spaetzle, and pastries anyone?), Fredericksburg is also known for its many boutiques and exotic shops. Ditch your vehicle on Hauptstrasse (Main Street), and set out on foot to explore the bazaars. There’s something for everyone, and if you need a break, stop by Fredericksburg Brewing Company for a cold one. They’ve been brewing fine beers since 1994.
But Fredericksburg has evolved, reflecting the ever-changing demographics of Texas. And that explains why you can simultaneously be treated to Texas-size servings of German food, but right alongside it on the menu you’ll find fine Mexican cuisine, the kind we have embraced in these parts for years. It’s an odd mash-up visualizing lederhosen topped with a sombrero, but it could happen at your party’s table.
The last couple of decades have witnessed Fredericksburg and the outlying region emerge as premier wine country. It’s the Napa Valley of the south. There are more than 90 wineries within an hour of Fredericksburg, and professional wine tasting tours are available on comfy buses so you don’t have to worry about driving. My favorite winery is Pedernales Cellars just south of Stonewall. Join their wine club like I did. You won’t regret it.
The National Museum of the Pacific War in the heart of downtown is a history lover’s dream come true. It is considered one of the top five history museums in the U.S., and abides by its promise to Admiral Chester W. Nimitz: to honor everyone who served and supported the war effort in the Pacific. Ongoing research ensures that the museum and its holdings change and grow over time, while its mission remains steadfast.
While Fredericksburg is busy year-round, there are busier times than others. Spring brings throngs of visitors to view bluebonnets, Indian paintbrushes, and other wildflowers, while late autumn finds folks doing their Christmas shopping and enjoying holiday decorations. Even in winter, the normal daily highs are about 60 degrees, so it feels great to be out and about.
Numerous major events occur throughout the year, including The Peddler Show, the annual Texas Hell Week cycling camp (which I established and managed for many years before passing the baton), Oktoberfest, the Christmas Nights of Lights, and Kinderfest. Check the calendar at VisitFredericksburgTX.com.
Fredericksburg is small in terms of population (a little more than 11,000), but it has abundant motels and more than 1,500 B&Bs. Take your pick from vintage motels to modern chains, as well as quaint cottages and full-size houses that can accommodate a range of family sizes.
The biggest factor that drew me to Fredericksburg 30 years ago, and caused me to host my cycling camp there, was the nearly 500 miles of paved roads in Gillespie County, of which Fredericksburg is the seat. Many of these are barely wide enough for two cars to pass, and most are open range, meaning you’ll be sharing the road with cattle, sheep and goats. Cattle guards keep livestock from straying too far. Low water crossings of seasonal creeks are often rough, so drive with caution.
Between the rolling hills, wildflowers, and peach blossoms and eastern red buds in the spring, it makes for an idyllic tableau, one that spoke to my soul back then, and each time I return. It is distinctly Texan, but with a European twist. I was fortunate to share this little piece of heaven on earth with several hundred of my best friends each year, as well as scores of others with whom I have shared the story, just like now.
Pack your bags and head south to Fredericksburg, for a weekend or a week. And don’t forget to pack your lederhosen and dirndl. You never know when a Bavarian party might break out.
Nick’s Picks
Enchanted Rock State Natural Area is located about 15 minutes north of town along RR965. This dome of pink granite beckons hikers to make their way to the top, where expansive 360-degree views await. The park is very popular and the parking lot small, so plan on coming early in the day.
Luckenbach, Texas, was popularized by Willie Nelson and Waylon Jennings in song in 1977, but the “town,” which consists of a small store, post office, and dance hall, has been around since 1849. Today, it is an iconic attraction for everyone from motorcyclists and bicyclists to motorists of all stripes. There’s nearly always someone strumming a guitar, and concerts on weekends pack the hall with revelers. It’s about 15 minutes southeast of town, off US 290.
The Willow City Loop provides breathtaking vistas, and is one of the most popular places to view bluebonnets in spring. The narrow, twisty roads with frequent cattle guards require a slow pace, which is the whole idea, anyway. Take Texas Highway 16 north of town and watch for the signs.
Hill Top Cafe, located less than 10 minutes northwest of town on US 87, is a popular dining destination. The Greek-Cajun cafe opened in 1980 in what was once a remote gas station and is owned by former Asleep At The Wheel member Johnny Nicholas.
Lyndon B. Johnson State Park & Historic Site is located east of town adjacent to US 290, and provides a fitting homage to the 36th President. Multiple historic structures beckon, and the park’s main roadway offers not just history but also many scenic glimpses of the Pedernales River.
Wildseed Farms, east of town on US 290, is not just a delight to see and photograph, but also to peruse its offerings to take a little bit of it back home. Naturally, offerings vary by season.
Altstadt Brewery and several distilleries near town round out the extensive adult beverage offerings of the area. Use your favorite mapping app to find them all.
For breakfast, don’t miss the Old German Bakery & Restaurant on Main Street, or if you want to see where the locals congregate, visit Andy’s Grille on South Washington. Either way, you’ll leave with a belly full.
Fuel up before you travel at a convenient Pak-a-Sak store location in Amarillo or Canyon.
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