There are 63 national parks in the U.S., and while Amarillo is not fortunate to have one close by (Palo Duro Canyon almost became one, but that’s a story for another time), we do have several within fairly easy reach. Guadalupe Mountains National Park in far West Texas and Carlsbad Caverns National Park in southeast New Mexico provide a wealth of natural beauty, hiking and photography opportunities to please anyone.
But it is White Sands National Park—less than 20 minutes southwest of Alamogordo, New Mexico, and about six hours from Amarillo—that is my favorite, especially in winter. While northern residents—and sometimes Amarilloans—are busy digging out of the white stuff, visitors to White Sands can play in another kind of white stuff, kicking off their shoes and enjoying the feel of the beach without having to drive
700 miles. This is one of three National Parks that feature sand dunes, but the other two cannot lay claim to the same pristine white sand you’ll find here.
White Sands is one of our nation’s newest National Parks, having been promoted from National Monument status in 2019. Winter truly is the best time to visit, because the torrid heat of summer is tempered by the mildness found in the Chihuahuan Desert when the sun angle is low. A person could burn the soles off their feet in summer if they’re not careful. Because the sun reflects off the sand, it is easy to enjoy January temps around 50 degrees while dressed in a T-shirt and shorts. It’s kind of like being in a convection oven. Bring sunscreen.
While you’re frolicking in the sand, consider that the first inhabitants to what is collectively the Tularosa Basin arrived about 11,000 years ago, and hunted mammoths. Sadly, they—neither the early humans nor the mammoths—didn’t survive to tell stories and write travel columns.
There was farming until the 1300s, when a drought forced them to move along. The arrival of European Americans in the late 1800s ushered in the railroad and settlers, and the area started becoming a destination unto its own. The park has been seen on the silver screen, thanks to New Mexico’s long history of incentivizing TV and movie productions. In 1950, King Solomon’s Mines was filmed there, followed by 1968’s Hang ’Em High, and the 1992 crime drama White Sands.
All that sand beneath your feet is gypsum, weathered and eroded through millions of years. When the Permian Sea retreated, it left behind layers of gypsum. Mountains then rose from the basin, lifting the strata of gypsum ever higher until other forces of nature, notably melting glaciers, dissolved it. The gypsum thus returned to its original location, and retains moisture even throughout summer’s heat and droughts because there’s groundwater just below the surface. Interestingly, gypsum is the same thin white strata we see in the exposed outcroppings of Palo Duro Canyon.
Whether you’re a pro or just an avid smartphone photographer, White Sands will not disappoint. Stark, spindly yucca randomly dot the otherwise barren landscape, casting sharp shadows onto the sand when the sun is bright. As the light changes throughout the day, a scene can take on very different hues, especially as sunset approaches.
There are about nine miles of designated trails throughout the park, but the dunes, unless otherwise posted, are open to explore. Slog your own way, and burn lots of calories as you work overtime to make your
way up and down the soft, shifting dunes. Between March and November, the park also offers guided moonlight hiking tours near the full moon. Photography is a snap with so much ambient light bouncing off the surface.
Perhaps even more fun than hiking and playing in the sand is the opportunity to bring your own metal or plastic discs. Why shiver in snow when you can go flying down dunes just the same? Some motels in town even offer loaners for those who forget to bring theirs.
Because White Sands is surrounded by a missile base, there are short periods when both the park and U.S. Highway 70 will be closed. These typically last for only one to two hours, and occur twice a week on average. Locals are well accustomed to this, and adjust their schedules. Be flexible if your arrival coincides with one of the closures.
There are multiple modern hotel and restaurant chains in town, making this one of the more easily accessed national parks in the system. There are also several quaint mid-century motels, of which my pick is the White Sands Motel. Its old-school sign is a sight for sore eyes, and the meticulously maintained and cleaned rooms are a lovely throwback to a very different era. You’ll also save money.
Just remember to clean all that sand off your feet before you go inside.
Nick’s Picks
Alamogordo—“fat cottonwood” in Spanish—is a fun town. Mild winters have started attracting retirees.
It seems that every city and town has a roadside attraction worth seeing, and Alamogordo is no different. A few miles north of town is McGinn’s PistachioLand, Home of the World’s Largest Pistachio. At minimum, it’s a fun photo opp.
New Mexico is known for its craft brewery scene, and 575 Brewing Company in Alamogordo is top-shelf in this category. I’ve sipped more than just a few IPAs there. Not all at once, though.
If wine is your adult beverage of choice, Arena Blanca Winery sits on the McGinn’s property, so you can check two boxes in one stop. It is also the highest-rated winery in the area, just ahead of D.H. Lescombes Winery & Bistro, and Heart of the Desert Pistachios & Wine.
If timing is on your side, you may be in luck for one of the twice-annual tours of the Trinity Site north of Alamogordo hosted by the U.S. Army. It’s a trip back to 1945 when the Atomic Age began.
An hour north of Alamogordo is the tiny town of Carrizozo, which looks like it might just be a ghost town, but in fact is a thriving arts community. The Tularosa Basin Gallery of Photography is located there, and is hands down the best in the state. Plan to spend an hour or more perusing the hundreds of amazing photos on display.
Fuel up before you travel at a convenient Pak-a-Sak store location in Amarillo or Canyon.
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